Farley Chatto Fall 2015

Dance dance. The Farley Chatto runway at Toronto Fashion Week opened with a ballet performance excerpt from La Sylphides to set the tone. The ballet is a romantic tale set in Scotland for the fall and winter.

The collection itself contained lots of tartans and plaids. There were furs all over the outerwear. There were ultra-feminine skirts of tulle and other soft fabrics for dancing. Menswear jackets were well cut and dapper. Pants were quite slim. Women's furs were luxurious and offered in natural and vivid colors like purple and red.

Hardcore fashion fans delighted in the appearance of supermodel Stacey McKenzie on the runway (far right in the mauve fur coat). The staging itself did not take itself seriously. Farley Chatto is a Canadian fashion vet who costumes the country's top arts productions including the tv competition Canadian Idol. He teaches fashion at the nation's top program at Ryerson University. He has a respected reputation in tailoring to celebs like Saraj Jessica Parker to George Clooney. That didn't stop him from sending down a shirtless male model wrapped in faux tiger fur and shawled in cable knit as eye candy.

Farley Chatto even showed off his own impressive ballet skills for the finale. I can't say I have ever seen a designer do that for his show. Bravo.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: David Dixon Fall 2016

This was one of the most moving fashion shows of Toronto Fashion Week. David Dixon dedicated his presentation to his late sister. As a response, his fall 2016 "Gene" collection was a collaboration with Ovarian Cancer Canada to raise awareness on health issues for women.

The collection itself had a minimalist color palette of black, white and various shades of gray. As Dixon's sister "loved everything girly" there were flower appliques, tulle and sequins mixed in with structured denim. The contrast also symbolized how fragility can be mixed with incredible strength.

Strong trench coats and sleek sheaths were paired with flowing organza tops and flared skirts. Over-sized metal grommets could be matched with delicate flowers or pailettes.

The finale brought a standing ovation as David Dixon held hands with survivors and those affected by cancer. Thank you David Dixon, for showing us fashion can be meaningful both personally and to others.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Gender Bending Sosken by Marisa Minicucci Fall 2016

Feeling cozy? Montreal designer Marisa Minicucci produced a sleek warm outerwear collection for the Toronto Fashion Week runway. Fall/Winter 2016 was an exploration of androgyny for the Sosken label. The conversation around gender fluidity is at an all-time high. The silhouettes for the jackets and coats had strong shoulders and a lean cut.

There were dark black, charcoal and browns with highlights of cream, red and blue. Textured wool houndstooth and plaids were in the mix. All the classic fall and winter fabrics and colors but with fresh, modern designs. Fur as an accent was the big star of the catwalk. There were fur capelets, scarves, handbags, messenger bags, muffs, foot warmers... It's Canada. It gets cold.

Marisa Minicucci as a designer, loves to constantly redefine sportswear and her overall creative outlook each season. As a woman, she thinks a lot about how the customer incorporates her clothes into her lifestyle. Unlike many male designers, she designs to flatter women of ALL shapes and sizes, not just the model. I find that to be the strength of female designers in general.

We might have had a light winter this year, but with Sosken's great outerwear from Marisa Minicucci, I am ready for next winter.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Christopher Paunil's Elegant Brides Fall 2016

David Pecaut Square in Toronto was graced with glamour on the first night of Toronto Fashion Week. Designer Christopher Paunil and partner Chalo Hancock showed their first runway show this season at the venue after launching their label in 2010.

Christopher Paunil creates impeccably tailored evening wear and bridal gowns for mostly private clientele. He takes his muses from classic couturiers like Charles James and Valentino which you can see from the sculpted silhouettes. Paunil likes to combine unusual and traditional fabrics into gorgeous gowns.

With the current runway collection, you can see the top two Pantone colors of rose quartz pink and serenity blue represented in satin right off the start. The variations of high/low, mermaid and trumpet skirt silhouettes are impeccably contructed.

The Christopher Paunil has already been picked up by legendary bridal retailer Kleinfeld in 2014 when they entered Canada. What was more notable for me was how much mentoring work the designer does with younger artists to be with organizations like U for Change. Even as they were developing their own collection, they had a policy to give back to the community as they were growing.

photos by David TW Leung

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#WMCFW: Hilary MacMillan Fall 2015

Another family affair, this time in Toronto. Canadian designer Hilary MacMillan's relatively new fashion label is known for its mix of luxurious fabrics and a signature print she develops every season. For fall 2015, she collaborated with members of her family to create a darker, rose and skeleton print.

The color palette was cream, black, bright and dark blood red. While it isn't obvious, the muse behind this season's collection was the Mexican holiday of Day of the Dead. The fashion show combined satins and leather, silk and knits. There were a lot of separates with updated proportions. Long topper jackets were paired with crop tops, loose pants that ended below the knee and jackets with elbow length sleeves. The models sported smokey eyes and slicked "wet look" hair (or they just ran out of the shower onto the runway).

Macmillan put the show in the fashion show, with the band St. Royals entertaining the guests. Guests included the who's who of Canadian showbiz personalities, like 24's Elisha Cuthbert and TV's Supernatural's Richard De Klerk.

Hilary MacMillan is committed to designing and manufacturing her label within Canada. She designs for the modern urban woman like herself. In a short time she has already made fans of all the top Canadian magazines. When you're on a roll, just enjoy the ride!

photos by George Pimentel

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Stephan Caras Spring 2015

It was another runway for fans of mermaids or ice queens. The Stephan Caras fashion show at World Mastercard Fashion Week in Toronto was all about the shimmer. The dominant colors were clearly metallic silver, gold and cool white.

The Caras family, with Kyriako Caras now also designing, loves texture and opulent shine in their fabrics. The men also love to show a lot of leg, shoulders and cleavage (though rarely at the same time). Many of the silhouettes had a retro sexiness to them, like the flared leg jumpsuit, plunging neck disco dresses, portrait back collars or short short suits.

photos by David TW Leung

Stephan Caras Luminous Collection Spring 2015

Luminous is the right name for this runway. The models looked like they were ready to soar to the moon in some of the space-agey looks. Some looked like femme-bots ready to tell Austin Powers to behave. Maybe this is because Stephan Caras has lived around the world, from being born in Greece then making his way to fashion success via Australia. Now this family dresses the most stylish muses in Canada. Maybe when you conquer this planet you’re ready to head to the next…

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Madame Moje Spring 2015

 This Toronto Fashion Week collection was born far far away and now resides in the mall I worked at in High School. Madame Moje is produced by the husband and wife team of Malashnee Naidoo and Hamed Emtiaz. It is an interesting love story and brand tale.

The couple met in Johannesburg, they had backgrounds in finance and electrical engineering. They lived in Singapore for awhile but fell in love with Vancouver Canada while on a cruise. Loving the city, but not finding the fashion options to suit her taste, Ms. Naidoo solved the problem by designing her own.

photos by David TW Leung

Malashnee Naidoo and Hamed Emtiaz design and produce the Madame Moje collection within Canada. They recently opened a boutique at the Shops at Don Mills, the shopping center where I used to work in High School (but upgraded nicely since then).

The World Mastercard Fashion Week collection and shop was touted to be Parisian-inspired. I don't see a direct Paris muse in the clothing, but the models all sported the side swept hair a la Sophie Marceau. The looks were all dresses. Malashnee favors hyper-feminine, curve flaunting silhouettes. She loves to mix fabrics and textures, pairing lace with brocade, leather and satin, etc.  You may not see these looks in the street style blogs of Le Marais, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the favorite of every Middle Eastern socialite.

Well there you have it, the global journey of Malashnee Naidoo and Hamed Emtiaz to the hyper-local runway of Madame Moje.

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Rachel Sin Spring 2015

A head for business, and a bod for sin? The theme of Rachel Sin’s spring 2015 collection was Work and Play. The Toronto Fashion Week designer embodies that lifestyle by creating clothes for busy, stylish women. The looks on the runway were appropriate for the office but can be dressed down or up to go out at night.

She designs for women like herself. The clothes are well fit. Her use of color blocking and body flattering lines look great on most women. I have come to recognize the figure contouring seams and quirky graphic prints as her signature aesthetic. The clothes are sexy and tasteful. Her collection is a young one, but I keep seeing top Canadian personalities snatch up her outfits in my media feeds.

I wonder if she also had the line from the movie “Working Girl” in her head like I did when she created this collection. I found the styling of the hair and makeup similar to the reformed sophisticated Melanie Griffith post-makeover. Was the subliminal message that anyone can transform themselves to success with the right look?

The line is reasonably priced where most dresses are between $200-$300 USD. The overall design may not be groundbreaking, but all the clothes are what women like to wear and trust they can look good in. I know it is a struggle for young designers to grow into a mega brand, but if I was to place my bets on anyone, it would be Rachel Sin.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Bustle Spring 2015

 Designers Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow brought the boys back from Greece to America for their Bustle spring 2015 collection.  Smiling, cocky models beamed and strutted as if they were basking in the Mediterranean sun on the runway at World Mastercard Fashion Week.

The design duo got their start as lawyers before turning to fashion.  They have an interest in product design in general over multiple categories of products, ranging from automobiles to hotel interiors.  Fashion fans in Canada will know Hewson from his work as a judge on the Canadian edition of Project Runway.

photos by David TW Leung

There was a Rugby theme via Greece for this season.  You could see this in the wide stripes and preppy separates in the collection.  Many shades of blue, teal, ivory and white along with a sunset rose gave this group a romantic, spring palette.  There were a few women’s looks that mirrored the men’s blazers and slim, crisp pants.  The one that was topless underneath the jacket that didn't close looked awkward.  Not to be sexist, but that just doesn’t work as well as the hunky shirtless guy walking down the runway in swimwear.  Did they run out of looks and decide to share a suit?

Regardless, this collection had a look of fun.  It was stylish, wearable, but didn’t take itself too seriously.  If the Bustle Spring 2015 guys run away to Greece again, I’ll make sure to follow. 

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#WMCFW: Christopher Bates Spring 2015 Menswear

I love the Christopher Bates Menswear show at Toronto Fashion Week.  His runway is always a treat to the ladies (or men) with a debonair line up of gorgeous gentlemen in fantasy characters (ok I am projecting). 

Christopher Bates always produces a sophisticated menswear collection with roots in Italian tailoring, but approachable to the most basic of fashion-shy males.  For spring 2015, his World Mastercard Fashion Week collection was inspired by the movie The English Patient.  You see the influence in the posh safari styling, tailored shorts, with some retro formal wear looks.   Even though the theme is recognized, each ensemble is wearable by most men.  There aren’t any gimmicky catwalk pieces, just stylish clothes to suit a projected lifestyle.

The savviness of Christopher Bates is that every model is styled to appeal to an archetype to tickle your fancy.  The rugged explorer, the adventurer with trendy beard, urban moto-riding vagabond and the posh gent are all there to accommodate your fantasy.  It’s a perfect marketing move where the designer understands that men ultimately dress to attract and please a mate, therefore he presents his collection as such.

I don’t wish to disrespect the designer’s success or talent, but it doesn't hurt that the handsome Bates is the embodiment of his brand.  How hot would it be to live in this world?

photos by David TW Leung

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#WMCFW: Target Canada's Toronto Fashion Week Show

Most fashion week shows are for the media. The Target runway for World Mastercard Fashion week was meant to appeal to true customers.  The clothing was pulled from current fall and winter offerings now available in the stores.  The catwalk was dressed up like a big red carpet, decorated with home accessories.  Live musicians gave it a party atmosphere as well as the big shower of confetti at the finale.

The clothing itself ranged from back-to-school looks, warm cozy street wear to dressier holiday party looks for men, women and children.  While the diverse range of models was game, I can’t say I was all that impressed with the fashion itself.  While some looks were appealing, a lot of it looked like generic, budget-friendly clothing that catered to Canadian clichés of anoraks, chunky knit accessories and quilted jackets. I would have thought that a splashy Toronto Fashion Week event would have been the perfect opportunity to showcase the big-name designer collaborations that gets the fashion crowd geeked out in the United States.  Are they not offering these designers up North? Why not? Why deprive Canadians the likes of Joseph Altuzarra?  The only collaboration I saw represented here was with TOMS.

The only guest “star” or celebrity appearance in Toronto was “Bullseye” the Target mascot dog.  The cute factor is a crowd pleaser, but does it get people shopping?

Target has been supporting Toronto fashion week in some way for the past few seasons.  Even before they had a retail presence open, they offered up a nicely catered lounge to fashion media during World Mastercard fashion week.  They have been putting a lot of effort in announcing their arrival to Canada, which is why I am surprised they did not showcase more fashion forward looks.  Why show current season clothes if they aren’t going to drive people straight to the stores?  Don’t underestimate the Canadians, they gobble up the top designers the way they do poutine.

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#WMCFW: Sid Neigum - Mercedes-Benz Start-Up Winner

Congratulations to a new fashion designer to win the Mercedes-Benz Start-up competition at Toronto Fashion Week.  Sid Neigum presented a solo collection that earned him a $30 000 prize, mentorship and a fully produced solo show at the next World Mastercard Fashion Week with magazine spread.

His winning looks were a polished, clear vision with asymmetrical hems shapes and interesting use of laser cutting techniques.  He had dresses and separates with pretty modular motifs cut out of them.  

His truly sculptural pieces though were tops, capes, dresses that comprised of modular origami forms that were also created with a laser cutting process.  This is the first time I have seen the technology used this way in fashion.  Keeping the palette to basic black, white and neutral grey helped to highlight the architecture of his pieces. 

The Mercedes-Benz Start-up competition has chosen a lot of the top emerging designers to succeed in Canada.  Alberta raised Neigum also previously won the Toronto Fashion Incubator’s New Labels competition two years prior.  Judges of the competition make their decision not on this runway presentation alone.   The judging panel selects their winner over a series of interviews, business plans, marketing strategies and past seasons as well.

Congratulations Sig Neigum! I look forward to seeing your next collection!

photos by David TW Leung

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#WMCFW: Pink Tartan Spring 2015

 Get your hustle on.  Pink Tartan’s Spring 2015 collection took a lot of inspiration from the 1970’s.  Designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran brought the decade to World Mastercard Fashion Week in Toronto with a nod to the disco era.

There were a lot of plunging necklines and jumpsuits.  There were elongated jackets and sharply pleated pants.  I can’t say I was a fan of the high waists on some styles, they made the models look dumpy and that’s quite hard to do.  Swimwear was introduced on the runway, which in the chilly, damp temperatures of Toronto, I wasn’t in the right mind frame to appreciate.

Stark black and white dominated the runway for the first half of the show.  I understand that no matter what the media and buyers claim they want to see in bright colors, they do always make the most buys from a collection from these two shades.  However, this doesn’t make a dramatic presentation.  I perked up when updated graphic prints arrived on the catwalk.  At first glance, the colors and patterns looked like they were a throwback to the 70’s as well.  However, a closer look showed an abstract, modern floral.  The other print I really liked was an over-sized paisley in gigantic foulard print.  I love seeing traditional motifs being re-interpreted and re-mixed.  The freshest way to do that is to change up the scale.

Are you looking to boogie? There was a top and jumpsuit that featured fringe that swayed when the models walked.  You can’t have a 70’s inspired collection and not have a few looks ready for the dance floor… I wonder where Kimberly Newport-Mimran and Pink Tartan were when Studio 54 was open… 

photos by David TW Leung

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Canadian Designer Spotlight: Hilary MacMillan

Happy Canada Day my fashion peeps!  I thought I would introduce you to another Canadian fashion designer this July 1^st.  Hilary MacMillan is a relative newcomer to Toronto Fashion Week.   Her Fall/Winter 2014 was her second appearance at World Mastercard Fashion Week.

Her collection is sourced and manufactured locally and designed in Toronto.  Hillary and her sister Lindsay MacMillan also own a popular accessories boutique Elle Hardware in the trendy neighborhood of Queen West (Hubby and I always love to shop this area when we visit).

The family connections don’t end there.  For her inspiration this season, Hilary MacMillan looked to her Scottish ancestry as her muse.  The birds, tartans and hunting culture may be from the Highlands, but they are also very much a part of Canadian heritage as well.  The first Prime Minister of Canada was a Scottish gentleman named Sir John A. MacDonald.  I only know that because my high school was named in his honor, and I saw tartans everywhere.  Also, history textbooks had old black and white photos of Canadian fur trappers.

The graphic illustration print of pheasants is both elegant and whimsical.  It works really with the sleek suits and sheath dresses.  The traditional tartan pattern is used in updated fashion silhouettes, giving it a fresh look.  The fur accessories, whether it is the over-sized handbag or neck wrap, has a raw, unfinished pelt quality.  Instead of the polished glam collars of other collections this season, the pelts look like they were freshly hunted, reminding you of where they came from.  I like that idea.  If you DO choose to wear fur, why shy away from its origin?  It is kind of like the farm to table idea in cuisine, but applied to fashion. 

On this great Canada Day, get to know your design talent up North.  Hilary MacMillan is a fashion designer to watch!

Photos by George Pimentel

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Toronto Fashion Week: Pink Tartan Fall 2014

Is it cold again?  The cozy looks intended for fall 2014 from the Pink Tartan show at World Mastercard Fashion Week are perfect for today.  Lots of fur, chunky knits and layers of wool came down the runway of Kimberly Newport-Mimran. 

The color palette stuck to the basics of black, grey, white, with accents of camel, copper and red. While the models had big collars, or hoods or fur piled on in multiple pieces, there were many looks of exposed legs and ankles that looked unbalanced.  Of course, that is just styling and not meant to be taken literally.  However, while the short shorts looked chilly, the excess of layers had an unflattering bulky effect on other models.  

The fair isle sweater patterns remind me of my childhood in Toronto winters.  There were several looks featuring slim black cigarette pants.  The contrast trim or seaming on the side was a nice update to the wardrobe basic.  

 The big fur handbag was the accessory of choice.  I guess it gives you the option to hug something for warm if the other 5 layers you are wearing are not sufficient.  My favorite shoes on the Pink Tartan runway were the cap toe heels with the coordinating back ankle strap.

 Maybelline styled the models with a touch of retro 1960's glam with generous amounts of eyeliner and mascara.  The nude lip and cool cheek was to evoke that fresh from the outside cold look.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Joe Fresh Fall 2014

More fur for fall 2014!  The biggest trend on runways around the world was well represented at the Joe Fresh fashion show at World Mastercard Fashion Week.  The cozy looks showed a very good understanding of the winter weather of the Canadian North.

The palette was earthy, with brown, khaki, green, grey and pops of bright orange.  Fur trimmed hoods, fur vests and heather knits looked warm during the still chilly delayed spring outside in Downtown Toronto.  Funny, the Maybelline beauty team took the cold weather inspiration literally by giving the models a flushed cheek, pale face and pouty lip to look like they just came in from the arctic outdoors.

My favorite pieces were the graphic ones.  Sweaters with snow capped Canadian Rockies, a closeup of a wolf's face were artistic.  There were silk dresses printed with beautiful forest artwork evoking the autumn colors I loved growing up, or the pretty contrast of dark branches against snow.  The look of these pieces from the runway had a much more elegant effect than the highly accessible price point that Joe Fresh is known for.

Joe Mimran and wife (Pink Tartan's Kimberley Newport-Mimran) are the first couple of Canadian fashion.  They know how to capture the shoppers of all budgets and taste.  I have to say I am impressed that these two keep showing their collections in hometown Toronto rather than migrating south like many Canadian brands that have found success across the border. Go Canucks!

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: David Dixon White Label Debut

Longtime Canadian fashion maestro David Dixon transformed his catwalk into an altar this week.  The World Mastercard Fashion Week show was the debut of his bridal collection.  The designer is usually known for his upscale sportswear, but after the urging of major wedding retailers, he decided to branch out.

You can see a lot of vintage glamour details in the styling of these gowns.  Peplums, bias draping, mermaid silhouettes are reminiscent of classic Hollywood divas.  In doing his research, the designer turned to many sources, but most personal were the wedding photos of his own mother.  Now the retro elegance makes sense.

Do you prefer a blushing bride? David Dixon didn't stick with the traditional white, he experimented with different shades of ivory, cream and several pink hues.  The general theme of the gowns were dresses that were floating and light.  They looked good in movement and definitely lent themselves to a good 'twirl".

photos by David TW Leung

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